Classic's Experiments

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Classic posted this 16 March 2024

Hello everyone !

 

This is my first post so, don’t come hard on me please.

 

I have built a little coil system for a while and when I have enough time I am still playing with it.

I am not making any claims yet, but the system built is a replica from “what if I did this” youtuber and seems to work quite nice. Until I will get a new multimeter I have no idea what is capable of, so I tried with different loads. I don’t know how but the output looks like AC and DC in the same time or maybe just pulsed DC.

 

Input is 20v 3.2 amps from an old laptop charger. Using a cheap ZVS bought from amazon and few flat spiral coils:  3 bifilar and 4 monofilar. 

One bifilar is connected to ZVS, then all the rest in 2 sets of 1 bifilar+2monofilar Both sets connected in parallel for output through 2 diodes and 1 cap.

 

I have inserted a battery meter just before ZVS to monitor power drawn than playing with different loads that I had handy: cfl bulb, incandescent bulb, ironing iron, kettle for boiling water, LEDs and a BLDC 6v motor.

 

It seems that I can power all of them without to much trouble, but for heavy loads (ironing iron and kettle) it takes time to get them hot … ironing iron start to get hot after 10 minutes and hot water much longer +40 minutes.

All I can say my system is very efficient, have a look on video and let me know what you think please.

 

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Chris posted this 17 March 2024

Hey Classic,

Good work, keep at it, and study as you work, it will all come together, in time.

Every experiment is worth while!

Please note: CFL's DMM's and High Frequencies are not good together, please be aware of this! Can give you False Positives very easily!

Best Wishes,

   Chris

Classic posted this 18 March 2024

Hi Chris,

 

Can you explain what DMM is ?

 

Not sure what you mean by false positive ?

 

I am well aware there is high frequency which needs to be “tamed” before using appliances especially expensive appliances.

 

Trying to power a cheap toaster I found it won’t work and all resistance wires inside resonate high when I force and hold the switch and they do not heat at all. And this effect needs to be investigated further as there is no heat at all in the load but the circuit providing will start to heat up. in my opinion is somehow an inability of the system to replenish at requested rate the necessary energy and I need to find a way to create a proper way to pour in the available energy from local environment.

 

Also, I found out after powering a heavy load the system struggle to adjust itself for a much lighter load and I have to lose the coupling of output coils to bifilar providing pr restart the system … but there is no problem at all to increase the power drawn from the load and the self adjustment works great.

 

I don’t have and not looking to buy any kind of expensive tools for measurements … this will be the task for dedicated profesional scientists if they want to explain why I am able to use low power to energise the heavy loads high power I intend and show. I really don’t care whatever tools or scientists are telling me, but I can trust what I can see and use … 

 

I am not getting energy from nothing as mainstream science says if total amount of energy entering the system is accounted for. So, as long as they deny existence of aether it means I am getting energy from nothing and it is perfectly fine if they dare to say so. I am proving it by building devices able to have much higher output than input in terms of metered energy.

So, in the system displayed in the video I am using DC input and measured with pretty good tool which can also be employed for solar energy generation.

 

Also, playing with this coil system in this configuration with only 3.2 amps input I can have a maximum 114 watts out … any load trying to get more then this will shut down the system. An ironing iron takes about 10-15 minutes to get hot enough to reach cut off temperature using and a kettle for boiling water rated at 2200 watts takes +45 minutes to boil 1 litre of water from tap.

 

So, I think the right direction might be to increase the input amps to 15 which will give me aproximative 300 watts input power, eventually an 24 V 15 amps DC adapter off the shelf will make a decent source at very low cost £12-15. This means I can power up easily heavier loads and will give the potential to overcome some losses from AC to DC to get rid of high frequency than an invertor off the shelf to power any appliances. At least this is how I can see a further development to obtain a decent usable energy source. Coupled with a battery similar with Baghdad Battery which I am working on will be perfect to get off the grid.

 

Another solution can be to use a system for radiant energy as per Tesla patent where an artificial source of UV can be easy employed as per Fig 3 and Fig 4 in patent description. Also work in progress.

Chris posted this 18 March 2024

Hey Classic,

Sure,

  • DMM = Digital Multimeter
  • False Positive = Readings that appear positive, but are inaccurate, and still not successful.
  • High Frequency and DMM's don't mix well.
  • CFL's can be difficult to give accurate results.

 

If you follow the Aboveunity tag, you will find many machines we have that are Above Unity, we have given all of the instructions how to do it, and you don't need High Frequency, it can be done at low frequency just as easily.

Don't be discouraged, its cheap and easy, and you're in a community that will help you along! We have a lot of good people here!

I put this thread together to help others:

 Start Here → Builders Guide to Aboveunity Machines

 

Keep up the good work my friend, we will help!

Best Wishes,

   Chris

Classic posted this 18 March 2024

I am not ready to give up yet ) 

I just remembered that I have some more caps and I decided to make a quick test. So, another cap electrolitic aluminium of 220 uF 200 v added in parallel at output on the load it seems to makes wonders.

The ironing iron rated for 2000 watts AC now only draw 65 watts compared with 85 watts without this extra cap and heat up a lot faster … but the toaster of 700 watts AC still don’t want work … but now there is no audible resonance anymore

i don’t have any other caps to check further yet

 

I have made this circuit due to its simplicity and very low cost, easy done with few scarp wires.

 

For the moment I don’t have any measurement tools, not even a multimeter … I just blown up my last one with some unexpected high voltage in a different circuit.

Classic posted this 18 March 2024

Anyway, I am not claiming anything as all I can show is battery meter used at input side before ZVS circuit, input source being a laptop charger with 20 V 3.2 amps then compare the loads with their rated power for AC at 50 Hz and look at battery meter which shows how much the load draw from the battery (laptop charger in this case).

 

What do I need to do to prove this is COP >1 ? I mean something without requiring to use oscilloscope or anything like that which is far beyond of what I am willing to spend … I rather spend more to build more devices and use them and whoever want to try more scientific work can easy replicate this very cheap device and test in any way they want.

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Classic posted this 24 March 2024

Hello everyone,

 

It seems that from this circuit the output is 2 phase, I have found that I don’t need second set of output coils to get same results, also I found out that adding more monofilar coils on output can decrease power drawn from source but, efficiency is decreased accordingly.

 

So, current arrangement is 1 bifilar flat coil connected to ZVS with same power source of 20 v 3.2 amps DC, followed by mutually coupled (sitting on top) 1 bifilar +2 monofilar coils. All coils are the same size in terms of geometry, direction of winding, wire gauge. Connections for output coils: bifilar as per Tesla patent inner wire from center connect to outer wire on outside diameter, output wires will be outer wire from center and inner wire from outside connect to inside of first monofilar, outer wire of this monofilar goes to inner of second monofilar and outer wire of second monofilar is the output. Second wire for output is the outer wire from center of bifilar.

 

If anyone is in doubt please ask, I may make pictures and/or draw a diagram.

 

So far despite much higher output considering the loads cannot be used safe in domestic appliances as they work abnormal in absence of neutral line of AC and all devices requiring an ground connection and neutral line simply do not work properly and all safety features will be bypassed with this configuration.

So, do not connect expensive appliances as they may or may not be destroyed.

 

Anyone can suggest something how tame the output without incurring huge loss ? Thinking of full bridge rectifier, smoothing capacitors and inverter ? Eventually voltage regulator before invertor to make sure we don’t fry the inverter ?

 

Anyway, this circuit as it is now can be used with induction heating or simply nichrome wire to make a cheap solution for heating homes and if anyone need help to make one we can discuss options available.

 

I truly believe this circuit can be looped back and made self runner with help of relay make and break from inverter if 24 V 10-15 amp can be obtained … but this needs to be further investigated and probably an isolation stage should be included.

My aim is to build a self runner with 2-3kw output for under £200 with very basic tools and off the shelf components … I have no desire to build something expensive even if can output much more power.  This will be just a step closer to energy independence for anyone living on this planet, all open source with full disclosure, free for everyone to make a business or build themselves for personal/commercial use, no limitations whatsoever !

 

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Classic posted this 3 weeks ago

If anyone will be ever interested in this very simple and basic setup of how to power much bigger loads with very little input or want to develop further I can say after more testing and even changing the ZVS, that main power is from the first bifilar powered by ZVS and just adding more secondaries works very well.

 

I have tried to ground the circuit in many points and there is no effect yet at all.

 

Preparing to loop it back now, leaving 1 secondary for loads output and another secondary to loop back using a different ZVS with same output.

 

All extra power comes from local environment but is limited (for now)  by capabilities of primary circuit electronics (switching) and its input. I will try to loop it through the ground if I can. Will see if will blow up or work later today. Probably a good idea to make a video with the new ZVS before further experiments in case will blow up when self looped. As I am not sure if it can handle the output directly as I intend to do.

 

I have no idea what the output is in terms of voltage and current as it can not be measured with a multimeter that I have. My new multimeter have some capabilities to measure frequency, looks pretty accurate for 50 Hz from grid or basic pwm. But it seems the output frequency will increase when more resistive loads are connected.

So, all I know is my output has a high frequency which varies upon load powered. The heavier is the load the higher goes the frequency.

I am still puzzled by input drain … a simple incandescent bulb 28 watts draw about 10 watts from source with approx 20 khz and much heavier load like ironing iron with  2000 watts with approx  31 kHz draw 71 watts from source … the heavier the load, the less power is drawn from source.

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Classic posted this 3 weeks ago

If anyone knows more about measurements I need some help.

 

I am measuring output voltage with negative probe on the ground and positive probe on load and then on output from zvs. I can read voltage in AC and non measurable on DC with my multimeter. As expected I can see a voltage drop between zvs output to secondaries and load side. Now my question is: can I trust what am I seeing on multimeter display ? Is this a good method to measure when output has a high frequency ?

 

It seems to be a low voltage and my non contact voltage cannot detect anything, not even when is above 110 volts AC … this is why I can hold bare wires with my hands and can’t sense any electric even if I am very sensitive … I can feel HV sparks from ignition coil on my car without touching wires (50-100 mm away from spark plugs cables).

 

Also, I have tried to use a second set of secondaries to connect straight to ZVS input and it cannot self sustain with first set of secondaries powering the load … but zvs getting hot and power consumption from source decrease if the loop is left in place.

 

Also I have noticed that output frequency goes above 122 khz if I power up a cfl bulb and using 2 sets of secondaries I am able to power up more loads until output reach 115 watts when system shut down.

 

I know there is not enough inductance for self sustaining, but I tried to see what is going on as the voltage is self adjusting for each load together with frequency.

 

So, this is a dead end for self sustaining as long as I am not building new coils. Now I will pursue the source path, meaning build a self charging battery to operate this little circuit which can be used for central heating in a home with very little money even without the batteries intended.

 

I have tried another set of bifilar spiral flat coils with 54 turns (initial test was with 32 turns each coil in sets), the output of only one bifilar without any extra monofilar can power the ironing iron getting hot fast (like connected to the main/grid) with 95 watts drawn from source, but it cannot lit up any bulbs … I guess there is not enough amperage from my laptop charger for this. Anyway my aim is to make something which uses very little power and able to be efficient and not going to spend years for research as I don’t have a buget nor time for this.


This is all updates for now.


So, just some help with measurements please if anyone knows more.

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Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

Hello Classic,

IMHO, you have not provided enough information for anyone to accurately help you with measurements.

Diagrams, with measurement points and more is an absolute minimum, but you have not provided any of this.

I was not going to reply, because I did not want to state the obvious, but alas, I guess its part of my JD.

Our measurement threads, and threads that follow these protocols, show very clearly how accurate measurements should be done.

It is very clear, the other forums have very poor knowledge and skills, and can not follow these simple protocols, and actually encourage others to deviate from the Accurate Methods, because they are actively trying to Lie and BS everyone!

Several names come to mind, and its a fact, these scum bags exist!

So, you have options, but as it stands, you have not provided enough information for anyone to help you.

Best Wishes,

   Chris

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Classic posted this 3 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

 

Many thanks for reply, it is really appreciated. I will make few videos probably over the weekend to show connections and measuring points … but honestly it is very basic nothing special, just coils in series and a switch mechanism. It is outrageous simple for what it can do.

 

Now, on your recommendations to read measurement threads … i already did it, but apart from using a ground reference I can’t see anything else and I am not going to buy resistors or anything else just to prove something. For myself it is enough the fact I can power up appliances rated for much higher power consumption that little basic circuits can output drawing max 60 watts from power source. Using a battery meter on input should be more than enough to prove if there is any need to prove something.

But more will be shown on videos. And I rather spend money to build something usable then prove something for research purpose. If anyone really want to do a research, can easy replicate this little circuit that cost approx £50 if everything is bought brand new from shops and the cost of wire is the most expensive. I am not willing to do research for someone else, I just build devices for personal use (for now).

 

Anyway if measurements are correct it seems that all devices powered with this method are somehow underpowered, undervoltage and undercurrent and should not be used for anything expensive, but for just powering a resistance wire (resistive element) for an electric boiler is just enough, or even a small induction for local heating a flow of water in a copper pipe.

 

According to the youtube user “what if I did this” upgrading zvs for a higher output is possible and also this system can be used for one wire transfer using a ground … which seems to be true as long as I can get a reading of output using a ground connection, but in my setup there is just little power output as current in my case is just 3.2 amps. I don’t have handy any other power source with required output and my scope is to use as little power as it is possible making feasible to be used with almost anything available off the shelf by anyone anywhere in the world.

 

My true belief is we need as many as possible little devices easy to build to start making a difference, all govs in the world already have in place such tech but they are simply to corrupt to allow a public release. Once people start to make and use them, there will be not returning point. Even if many will have no idea why they work or how they work. We must get it out !

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