Reliable and Flexible Switching System

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Chris posted this 30 September 2017

A Reliable and Flexible Switching System is second to none, it is the most important piece of Hardware one could have on your bench!

I was lucky enough to share some data with a friend that had worked on this same concept with one of his friends, Back then, the idea was called the: Quadratron

 

Funny enough TheOldScientist has done some videos on this:

 

I have also build a few versions of my own inception of the: Quadratron which is now called IPC-quadra

 

Version One:

 

Version Two:

 

 

I have another H Bridge I use also, this is not related to the Quadratron. It is a Custom Built, Salvaged from an Old UPS, 3000VA:

 

I think it is important to not, this is very handy, but its not a necessity, cheaper and easier options exist. EBay has some good options. Variable Frequency and Duty Cycle are the absolute most important.

High Voltage and Current is not necessary.

I personally find a Microcontroller is a good cheap option! Easy to use, Plug and Play if you don't mind the pun! I have built all my own software:

 

I think if we combined our skills, we as a team could come up with a community based project that is better and cheaper than all options presented!

China could do cheap PCB's, We could build our own software!

We could find a cheap Microcontroller.

Let me know if you're keen to look into this!

   Chris 

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Chris posted this 01 October 2017

For those that are not in the know, a System like this, a Custom, or a Reliable and Flexible Switching System, will allow you to set a Frequency and a Duty Cycle easily and quickly!

The Microcontroller: 

 

All controlled from your computer or laptop:

 

 

Or:

 

 

All done very easily, a GUI that can be easily customised! Simply scroll your Mouse Wheel and the Frequency or Duty Cycle is changed.

Alas, no good for cooking Sausages!

   Chris

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Zanzal posted this 04 October 2017

Were you considering a DIY kit, or a retail item to be sold, or a how-to instructable for people to build their own? I'm all for using knowledge to build useful and exciting products. 

If you are looking for ideas: a tiny OLED screen, a few rotary encoders, and an ESP-32S would be a fairly cheap way to go. Simplify the circuitry by using opto-mosfet drivers (FOD3180 for example). The wifi on the ESP-32S means that a web interface could be added with one of the two cores for signal generation. Add a 3D printed case and a 5V wall adapter.

Chris posted this 04 October 2017

Hi Zanzal, not sure yet.

The Circuit above is not mine to sell, so I will have to come up with something different.

A small plug and play board would be nice, easy for people to get started.

WiFi has trouble with this sort off thing, the work we are doing, there are frequencies that take out the WiFi and the device becomes unresponsive. So, although a good idea, its a bit hard to incorporate.

Yes a oled would be a good idea!

   Chris

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cd_sharp posted this 06 October 2017

Hi, guys! I also recently have been having an idea to make an H-bridge. Since I have a dual channel function generator able to control the phase difference between the channels, I came up with this idea:

I wish to use it to feed the primary coil in a device similar to Graham Gunderson. I understood that AC is absolutely necessary. Please, let me know any of your thoughts on this!

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Chris posted this 07 October 2017

Hey CD, a good Reliable Switching System is a real handy tool for sure.

I would like to point out, AC and DC both work and both work equally well, but under different circumstances. AC, however, is much better in the Mr Preva Experiment.

In different Systems, the geometry might be quite different, but the basic under laying processes the same.

For example, we have recently covered how the similarity's are very much the same between the MIT of Graham Gunderson and the 30 Watt Lantern of Akula. Although they are quite different in how they get to the end result, they both get to the same end result.

The Some Coils Buck and some Coils DONT Thread covers a huge amount of the reason behind why I am pointing this out.

Graham Gunderson gave us his Timing Cycle, as did Akula, this is where we should be looking, connecting the dots and making the connections to an Excess in Electromagnetic Induction. In other words Asymmetrical Electromagnetic Induction.

  • AC, a Sinusoidal Wave is a continuous gradual Change over Time
  • DC, Square Wave is a sharp, Transient, then with long periods of no change over Time (DC).

But from the early days of the Andrey Melnichenko GLED, Akula 30 Watt Lantern and through to Ruslans Lantern, DC was used.

Graham Gunderson uses AC to get the same end result.

Years ago, I published a schematic: (Circuit and Layout)

 

With the following waveform: (Scope Shot - Yellow is Current Input - Red is Voltage Output)

 

Over at "Akula0083 30 Watt Self Running Generator", this was one of my early break throughs. (April 17, 2014) after already knowing about Bucking Coils and how Electromagnetic Induction worked. This was a super important experiment in learning just a little more in my learning curve! Thus the reason I published it!

Why was it a breakthrough? The polarity of the pulsed Coil flips, according to the Dot Notation, thus the Coils then Buck, Energy is then "Generated" as a result of the basic requirements of Faradays Law.

Not a single soul realised this, replicated to see what I was saying... OU.com is full of the same simplicity's it was at its inception, circling in unending circles of nothingness...

I hope this makes sense?

   Chris

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cd_sharp posted this 07 October 2017

Hi, Chris! For the moment I gave up on using pulsed DC and two coils setup (GLED lantern style).

Actually I think that I first heard of an H-bridge from you. But this one

is incomplete. I saw that making an H-bridge using my dual channel FG and 4 MOSFETs is not so straight forward. What signals did you use to drive MOSFETs Q1-Q4? I think Q1 and Q4 gates are being fed a signal 180 degrees out of phase with the signal being fed to Q2 and Q3 gates.

Also, to be able to power anything from the output ends we need a current sensing circuit much like Graham Gunderson uses, which I don't think I am able to draw since my background is not related. I will try to use a MOV on the output, like you have shown Naudin did with the MEG, but I doubt the results could be anything near Graham's.

Thanks for all your help!

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Chris posted this 07 October 2017

Hey CD, if I may, and with your already good knowledge on the Akula 30 W Lantern, suggest that this might be a good path to stay on?

Yes, a pseudo schematic, incomplete for simplicity.

With my recent experiments, Some Coils Buck and some Coils DONT, that was leading up to the Lantern anyway! This should help you along the way. Perhaps replicating my experiments, with simple stuff, a few simple coils, look at the effects, and maximise on these effects, this will be very much more productive than building the entire thing and then finding it does not work. The Circuit is secondary, this is only a Signal to the Mosfet...

What's really important is to see and understand the Coil Interactions! As we saw in the Mr Preva Experiment.

What I have shared is nearly there, its the start to the next step, after your excellent Mr Preva Experiments, you will see where I was heading, in the direction I was heading, I hope?

As we know, from the Mr Preva Experiments, we saw Electromagnetic Induction at its most basic, fundamental levels, but it did take a little work.

Does your FG support the Duty Cycle Adjustment? If so, what's the supported duty cycle range?

My H-Bridges are all Microcontroller driven, one has a H-Bridge IC which there are many of them today. I can share my code, but the Microcontrollers are no longer being made.

The goal of this thread was to get everyone to decide on a Microcontroller, Code it, and then look at a hardware solution as I have shown above. But only better.

To answer your questions, Q1-4 were driven by a circuit like was shown above:

 

I have 4 of them side by side, controlled by a Microcontroller. Q1 and Q3 are on and Q2 and Q3 are off, then this flips, 180 degrees out of phase. You're Right. This creates an Alternating, Direct Current Switching Cycle.

   Chris

 

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cd_sharp posted this 07 October 2017

Does your FG support the Duty Cycle Adjustment? If so, what's the supported duty cycle range?

Yes, 0.1-99.9%, it's a Feeltech FY3200S FG, not one of the most expensive ones, but neither the cheapest. It has DTC, Phase, Freq Sweep, TTL and other features. It's more than what I needed until now.

Hey CD, if I may, and with your already good knowledge on the Akula 30 W Lantern, suggest that this might be a good path to stay on?

..

Perhaps replicating my experiments, with simple stuff, a few simple coils, look at the effects, and maximise on these effects

I trust you. Although I saw no first-hand connection between Mr Preva experiment (which I understand) and Akula lantern (which I had no results with, but it's me to blame), if you say there is one then I will read the material again and retry.

Your guidance is enough to convince me on the next steps.

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Chris posted this 08 October 2017

Were getting off topic and should move our conversation to the Akula's 30 W lantern Thread,

Most of the Akula Circuitry is to drive the Mosfet, he uses the Term Transistor. Not Mosfet.

Which is what we are looking at here in this Thread. The optimum and easiest, flexible configuration to produce a wide range of Wave forms.

It is the Interactions in the Coils, and between the Coils that needs attention.

   Chris

 

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devesh posted this 10 November 2017

Hallo guys, I'm not absolutely sure to have correctly understood the meaning of this thread...may you please confirm - or negate - my understanding? 

The need is to produce two square wave signals, which have to be exactly the opposite each other; moreover the duty cycle and the frequency have to be variable but the two signals have to be in sync (mirrored on a scope trace). Right?

If this is the point, I have built a very, very stupid circuit using a dual MOSFET, low side, driver: the MCP14E8 (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/25006A.pdf) which has one straight and one inverting output, to be used to drive the gates of two independent MOSFETs so, connecting in parallel the two input pins and feeding them with a common FG (which can be an Arduino Nano or any kind of small microcontroller), we can drive our bucking coils and make all the test we want.

Depending on the work frequency, and the test voltage, one has only to choose the correct switching devices (IGBTs for the working frequencies below 100KHz, MOSFETs if the frequency should be higher) and their maximum operating ranges.

What I see here very important, in my immense ignorance, is the sharpness of the pulses (rise/fall times) and the material used as the common core of the bucking coils (nanoperm, iron powder, nanocrystalline multilayer, Metglas)... I thinks, also, that the inductance of the bucking coils should be different but the wire mass identical. 

Last, the bore (inner hole) of one of the two coil should be huge - say, more than 10/15cm - where the other should be a quarter - say 2/3cm -. The core, accordingly, should not be regular in its shape but bigger on one side and smaller on another side, preferably a toroid. 

 Let me know if the above is what is needed and I will post the stupid schematic which I built months ago on a breadboard.

 

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Chris posted this 10 November 2017

Hi Devesh - The intention is to possesses a Reliable and Flexible Switching System.

  • Adjustable Frequency
  • Adjustable Duty Cycle

The idea is to switch any sort of wave form easily, cheaply and quickly.in any format, H-Bridge, Half H-Bridge or single Mosfet Driver.

An entirely flexible system for multi purpose experiments.

The H-Bridge is the most efficient switching that one can employ, it is fast becoming the system of choice for many applications.

   Chris

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devesh posted this 10 November 2017

Ah, ok...so not specifically related to the bucking coils tests. Understood. You said "any sort of waveform", mmmhhhh... As per my little knowledge switching AC, especially in the high power applications, we have to use back-to-back MOSFETs arrangements or make use of TRIACS: these two alternative components need a different kind of driving strategy so I can't imagine, at the moment, an all-in-one device so flexible which will be able to drive a so wide range of switching components... Maybe the quadratron does exactly this work: I have to study it deeply.

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Chris posted this 19 September 2018

My Friends,

For completeness, and for others looking I want to share information from this topic.

I have said it before, my Electronics skills are very average and I only know enough to be Dangerous, for this reason, simplicity is a very important concept! 

Why use a Mosfet Driver:

  • Isolate the Microcontroller from high Voltage high Current sources.
  • Microcontrollers are normally 3.3 to 5 Volts output. This is not enough to reliably switch most Mosfets. Normally in the range of around 3 - 10 volts are required. See datasheet: Gate Threshold Voltage, 3 Volts normally wouldn't turn the Mosfet on correctly.
  • Ensure the Mosfet is turned on and also off correctly.
  • Other reasons also...

 

For good reliable switching, a Mosfet Driver can be utilised. I have shown above a circuit I have used that a friend shared with me, that used the MCP1403 Integrated Circuit:

 

 

Sometimes you might see a home made Mosfet Driver, using a Push Pull Transistor Array, NPN and PNP Pair. I have not had a lot of success with these arrangements, found then a little tricky and found my time spent elsewhere can be a lot more productive. These arrays may look like Akula's Circuits:

 

 

Seen above, back to back on the lower negative rail. switching the KT805AM Transistor via the Resistor Capacitor filter Circuit.

A Mosfet Driver is cheap and very simple to implement, I have shown below that only a few minutes can have an operational circuit with only a few components:

 

 

 

Using Microcontrollers that are .NETMF Ported, it is very easy to get a simple PWM Signal:

Microsoft.SPOT.Hardware.PWM MyPWM = new PWM(Cpu.PWMChannel.PWM_4, 2, 0.01, true);

All that's required is to import the Microsoft dll: 

C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft .NET Micro Framework\v4.3\Assemblies\le\Microsoft.SPOT.Hardware.PWM.dll

One can then very easily Start the PWM using:

MyPWM.Start();

And to Stop the PWM:

MyPWM.Stop();

 

Please note: What I have shown above is not necessary to start off! Start with a simple breadboard as I have shown, a $3 Driver and a few resistors. Cheap Simple and easy!

We have a full section for Microcontrollers, and cover a vast range of Microcontroller's. Use the section, ask questions, someone will try to help as soon as possible!

Using a Microcontroller is a HUGE benefit, however there are some speed limitations. Microcontrollers are not Magic Yet!

   Chris

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John12 posted this 19 September 2018

Hello Chris and group,

Apologies you state the microcontroller can you elaborate on the Make/Model and any other components/accessories, their make and models 

Question:

Would old core memory allow this kind of switching old school (yes I am electronics pre newbie) working on it...

Thank you

 

 

 

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Chris posted this 19 September 2018

Hey John12,

I guess it could under the right conditions.

The main topic is the Reliable and Flexible control of either Mosfets or Transistors for the dedicated Inductive Switching. An area lacking for us in the Research Field.

   Chris

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Vidura posted this 20 September 2018

Related to this thread I would like to post some experiences and ideas. I have used custom made pwm generator s with microcontrollers and analogue ic, both have there advantages and drawbacks. Microcontrollers are accurate, can be clocked with crystals, and have very flexible programable adjustments and operating modes, a drawback is the limited resolution of duty cycle and frequency, and a kind of rippeling when scrolling . In contrast the analog ICs have virtually infinite resolution in frequency and duty cycle, although at the cost of less stability and flexibility. A few months ago I decided to purchase a function generator, a useful tool for electronic works, but regarding the pwm-square wave mode I am not at all convinced that it is the best solution. There might be better devices available, but the one I bought is have only one rotary encoder, so for every change of a parameter I have to change the selected mode , the decimal range etc, which is quite impractical.So I prefer the simple pwm with two variable resistors , where I can adjust frequency and duty cycle simultaneously, and sweep throu the range quickly. So I was thinking about how to unify the advantages of the microcontrollers and the analogue IC. I found some microcontrollers with NCO , a numerical controled oscillator, which have an excellent resolution and accuracy, combined with the flexibility of a programmable MC. When I have something elaborate I will post here or in the microcontroller section.

Chris posted this 20 September 2018

Hey Vidura,

Excellent Post! You taught me something valuable Thank You!

All members have access to the Microcontroller section now. Please let me know if there are any problems accessing or posting.

   Chris

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cd_sharp posted this 28 October 2019

Hey, guys

This thread is awesome. One can learn so many things even by looking at the first schema on top.

While waiting for the power switches and supply from Vidura, I worked on their powering stage. Here goes:

That on the left is an old ATX supply from a very old PC. I connected the outputs and the on-off switch into an empty box (the black one). I'm using it to power a poor man's switch I built manually.

Conclusions:

-Vidura's power module can most likely be powered by an ATX supply with no problem. I can't wait for the delivery.

-An ATX supply has so many separate outputs one cannot even imagine what can be done with. I connected only three 12V and three 5V outputs and I fixed with screws the other ones.

Chris posted this 03 December 2019

My Friends,

In part of my development, of PCB's and microcontroller driven PWM, I have a new version, one that is still in its very early stages but is a lot different from my board above, again displayed here:

 

 

My new version, here:

 

NOTE: This board is still in Development Stage, no warranty's or guarantees can be given. Already I have made a few very minor changes for the next version of the board.

ALSO NOTE: This new PCB is based on the above Circuit, shown again here:

 

You will see, there are some significant changes:

  • Protect the Gate from Bounce, from the negative Rail.
  • Separated Power for each Channel
  • and a few other things.

 

I have three PCB's to give away.

The three people I have chosen for sharing their work are:

 

For those out there, if they want to sponsor this endeavour, I can put your logo on the board. Contact me via PM and we can work something out.

   Chris

 

P.S: The MCP1403, is no longer stocked at element14, a chip with the same Pin Out and characteristics will need to be sourced, or another supplier will need to be found. I managed to find some at Mouser Electronics. The opposite is true for the IL610. The RK-0515S is easy to find still. Be careful of the layout, don't purchase until you have checked the sizes. I am sorry, I don't have enough to share.

 

Single Channel list, x4 to get 4 Channel:

 

Of course I have also put a large Diode across the Drain Source of the Mosfet, just use whats suitable. High Current at a decent Voltage.

NOTE: At all other Readers, if you would like to purchase a Board to build yourself, please let me know. I must let you know, the components are not cheap, there is some investment in these boards.

Vidura's PWM Board might be a good option for Signal Source, where G = Ground and P = PWM Source or Signal Source.

Atti posted this 04 December 2019

Hey Chris, that's a nice gesture.

thaelin posted this 04 December 2019

Hi Chris:

   Following this with great interest. I am in the make of a sig gen that was published in Radio Electronics and has some very good aspects. It doesn't have the versatility of what you are sharing here. I have sourced all of the parts except the IL 610 as well. Have you considered the use of optical isolation in this unit? I have in the past used light triggered transistors and had very good luck on the switching times. I do have an arduino staring at me and needs a job.

   What's your feel for this idea?

 

thay

Chris posted this 04 December 2019

Hi Thaelin,

Good to see your'e still with us!

 

Have you considered the use of optical isolation in this unit?

 

Yes, however last time I looked, OptoIsolators were limited to 80 - 100Khz. MagnetoIsolators are 50Mbits/s.

I think any and all projects where one can learn something is important!

I would be keen to see your progress on this, see what the pros and cons are.

   Chris

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Chris posted this 06 December 2019

My Friends,

After some work, I think we may be able to change R5 to a 680R resistor:

 

Something to keep in mind.

Also, for those hat have been sent Free PCB's, you will need to run a 1mm drill bit through the holes for the 5 Volt Regulator.

 

 

This is the best version of the Reliable and Flexible Switching System to date!

Enjoy my friends!

   Chris

Chris posted this 15 December 2019

My Friends,

I have been asked whats the purpose of some of the Caps. Its easier to show you:

 

This guy does excellent videos!

   Chris

cd_sharp posted this 16 December 2019

That's one very good and useful video, thanks.

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thaelin posted this 18 December 2019

  Great news if not already known. DigiKey has 500 IL610-1E in stock right now. I am hoping that this piece will work the same. It shows as  General Purpose Digital Isolator 2500Vrms 1 Channel 100Mbps 15kV/µs CMTI 8-TSSOP, 8-MSOP (0.118", 3.00mm Width).  They are surface mount but hey, can get them now. If you buy 10, it will be about $40 plus shp.

  So Chris, it looks as if your  pulser will be a better choice than the one I want to build. It will only do 300K and that is limited on some areas. I do have an Arduino and a Pi3 to drive it.  Is the last posted schematic the current one. Will get an order out soon and go for it.

On that core, last price I saw was $384, is that right? Hope there is a better place for it.

 

thay

 

Chris posted this 18 December 2019

Hey Thaelin,

I have Power trouble before I have bandwidth trouble. I have had my old unity up to 1.8MHz, but then, if one leaves it running too long the DC Converters pop.

It is a good unit! A Good Circuit!

   Chris

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Chris posted this 5 weeks ago

My Friends,

Any updates / Progress on the PCB's I sent out to people?

I would love to hear on the progress and what experiments you are using the PCB's for!

Best wishes,

   Chris

cd_sharp posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey, man, I didn't receive it. Hopefully in January I will.

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Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey CD,

Yes, hopefully soon! A few others have already received.

   Chris

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Jagau posted this 4 weeks ago

Yes I received the board, there are several parts i am waiting,
aleady have several pieces installed

 
best wishes, the holiday times is slower for the receipt of parts.


Jagau

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Jagau posted this 4 weeks ago

Hello my friends.

The 4 channels PWM board is progressing very well, it needs to order the IL610 isolator, I found it at an external distributor (finally).

I can't wait to see how he behaves.

In the meantime, a big thank you Chris for making me discover this forum which is really for my expectations and different from what I knew.


best wishes


jagau

Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey Chris, 

Happy New year!!  

I'm on vacation so I'm getting some time to work on this stuff.  I've been working on the flexible power supply board you sent me.  I just have a question on the 47uf inductor.  There are so many different types, Air core / ferrite / iron / etc, etc. Do you have a part number for what you're using? 

Thanks,

Loz

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Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey CaptainLoz,

The Inductor is to try to stop RF coming back into the RK-0515S DC Converter. So we need a suitable RF Inductor.

To be honest any axial inductor 47uh, will do the job.

You want a 1 watt or so.

   Chris

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Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Go it, thanks Chris!

Loz

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Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey Guys and Gals,

Just a reminder, it might be wise, to change R5 to a 680 ohm Resistor.

The PCB works fine, but just gets a bit warm on the 5V Regulators. I think a 680R Resistor will reduce the heat and also allow for good performance still.

Its easy to change anyway!

I have made some changes to the next version already, the board is a bit smaller, more compact, and also traces are top and bottom for higher Current capabilities on the Main Drive Mosefts.

So, practice your un-soldering, as in some months I may have another PCB ready.

This version is by far the best PCB Version to date, very nice smooth and fast, huge bandwidth, a very: Reliable and Flexible Switching System!

Have fun guys!

   Chris

Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

I'm making progress!  I just didn't have enough parts, but they are on the way!

Flexible Power Supply PCB

Cheers,

Loz

Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey Loz,

That is awesome! Some good ideas there for securing the Fets and Input Wiring!

Very Nice!

   Chris

Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Thanks Chris, Yes I keep blowing stuff up!  So these make things a lot quicker to replace.

Here is the Ebay links for people that are interested in the Mosfet and Regulator sockets.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-10Set-2EDG-3-Pin-3P-Plug-in-Screw-Terminal-Block-Connector-5-08mm-Pitch/371874798270?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-2-54mm-0-1-Universal-3-Pin-3-Poles-PCB-Screw-Terminal-Block-Connector/293045917624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The only issue with these is you increase the distance between the components, so it's possible to get some ringing, I guess... 

These are for the inputs-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-2-54mm-0-1-Universal-2-Pin-2-Poles-PCB-Screw-Terminal-Block-Connector/293251391717?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Loz

 

Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Got it done! Not as clean as your's Chris, but it turned out okay.  I need to put some insulators between the Mosfets and heat sinks but if I'm carful I can use it "as is".   All that's left to do now is test it. Hopefully very soon!

 

Jagau posted this 4 weeks ago

Hello friends, just arriving from a 4 days trip, I have to update myself.

Nice job Capt loz

Ok for resistance R5 Chris. Thanks


Jagau

Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

I just tested the board and all is good. I just have a question on the input voltage for the board. If I go over 5 volts it seems to draw a lot of current.  Is it okay to keep the input voltage at 5 volts?  

Cheers,

Loz

 

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Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey Loz,

Awesome! Looks really nice!

Yes, R5, the resistor I mentioned above, did you change it to a 680R Resistor? I think that might be an option for improvement?

I am also finding the same thing, heating of the Regulators, you may remember the post with this circuit:

 

I think this is the first place to look, I went off the original schematic, using the values that was supplied.

I hope this helps some!

   Chris

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Captainloz posted this 4 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

Yes I installed the 680R resistors.  What input voltage do you use on diode D5 input CN3? 

I've been playing around with it and it's working great, I'm only inputting 5vdc on input CN3 / diode D5, nothing is getting hot. 

Cheers,

Loz

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Chris posted this 4 weeks ago

Hey Loz,

Currently I am using a 12V DC Transformer.

 

Maybe check for a bad Zener Diode? Perhaps one of them is bad? The 5V ones by the IL610 IC? Not sure what else might be the problem. I have also had heating problems, and I think we can improve this. Maybe try a 1K resistor instead of a 680R?

I will also do some more investigating.

   Chris

Captainloz posted this 3 weeks ago

Hey Chris,

I think everything is working correctly.  If I use 12 V on input CN3 I have .4amp draw or 4.8 watts. That's seems high but @ 7volts its .4 amp or 2.8 watts. I think it's normal. Your power supply can handle 1amp at 12V so it's not problem for it.  Have you looked at the power consumption when connected to your new Rigol power supply?  

Cheers,

Loz

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Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

Hey Loz,

I did a small test, the Rigol DP832 Power Supply output on the display is not all that accurate. I have measured 10.2% Error on the Rigol DP832 Power Supply in one test using the Rigol DS1104 Scope. That was measuring DC as well!

 

 

So all in all, a bit disappointed in the Rigol equipment... Especially for the Cost, its not cheap, and its poor quality!

My Cheaper older Bench Test Equipment is better than the Rigol equipment. Much more accurate!

Best Wishes

   Chris

Attached Files

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Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

My Friends,

I have learnt something. Because this power supply is Constant Current Constant Voltage, we need to take into account my measurements were true Voltage and Current, which may not reflect the same values.

Constant Current Sources:

 

Rigol DP832 Power Supply:

 

I need to calibrate my DP832 Power Supply - The pdf is attached. Thank Jagau for the heads up!

Help:

 

Still I am not happy with the Rigol DS1104 Scope, it  is so slow! Maybe a firmware upgrade may help?

Sorry, a little off topic here, although it is hardware, just not about the: Reliable and Flexible Switching System

Best Wishes,

   Chris

Attached Files

Captainloz posted this 3 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

Thanks for posting the videos on the power supply. I've been through the current setting issues already.  

I have the Rigol DS1074 scope and don't have any issue like the long lag you're getting. I'm not sure what it is. Did you check the sample rate? My sample rate is set on 500Msa/s and scope works fast.  It's possible you have an issue with that scope, there's no way it should be that slow. I've been really happy with the DS1074z

Loz

 

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Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

Hey Loz,

I have been through lots of things. I should get Rigol on the phone! It is painful!

   Chris

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Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

My Friends,

After some messing around, and 20 minutes of Run Time for the Calibration, I am getting much better results:

 

NOTE: Don't calibrate your equipment when they are cold! It makes for terrible results! You need to run your machines for at least 20 minutes before Calibrating your machines!

An Average of 5.15 Watts on Scope and on PSU, but notice the Voltage and Current are a little off even though we get the same Output power.

  1. Voltage: 5.00 compared to 5.10
  2. Current: 1.03 compared to 1.02

 

Isn't this just crazy!

I hope this helps others!

   Chris

Atti posted this 3 weeks ago

The Rigol DS 1052 gives you half an hour warm-up time before self-calibration.
So even here, there is a margin of error.

Chris posted this 3 weeks ago

Hey Atti,

We are careful, we take care, error is small and we have shown a thorough approach. Not that we need it, when we reach a  level of understanding, the Output is way over the average margin of Error!

After all, if error is ±10%, but we see an Energy Gain of 200% then 10% is very small in the scheme of things!

Truly, worrying about this when the Gain Margin is so large, is a mute argument. So no need to worry, we are doing the utmost to show Accuracy, and also How to Calibrate, and check ones equipment.

Don't focus on the numbers yet, focus on the Effects and the Numbers will follow! Increase the Effects then you will see the Numbers increase accordingly!

Its not hard, ask others here replicating the Effects!

   Chris

Jagau posted this 3 weeks ago

Hi chris


I just received a good part of the parts for the quadratron.
I'm still missing some back order parts but the project is progressing well.

If you don't mind I will make some modifications to adapt it to my needs


Jagau

cd_sharp posted this 2 weeks ago

Hey, Chris

I have some questions about the Quadratron. Please help:

The diodes I marked in yellow have to be UF diodes? The ones on the top are D2 in the schematic and the ones on the bottom are D1-D4 from left to right marked on the PCB.

Also, please confirm that what I marked in red is correct.

Thanks, man

 

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Chris posted this 2 weeks ago

Hey CD,

Yes Diodes don't need to be Ultra Fast, but on the Switching side, it will be of benefit if you can.

The faster the Diodes conduct, the faster the Diode can dump Gate Current to Ground. For Faster On and Off Times.

Input Diodes are protection diodes, stopping Current in the Reverse Direction. All Diodes are in the right direction, remembering the MCP1403 dumps gate Current to Ground Internally:

The Low Side PNP Mosfet on the Output Pin, when the signal is off, Grounds the Output Pin.

I hope this helps!

   Chris

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Jagau posted this 1 weeks ago

Hi chris


This card is really super isolated from the source.
I started to study the circuit in more detail, a DC-DC converter, a passive isolator, a mosfet driver.
Wow super isolated from the source, I'm finishing to assemble it, can't wait to try this.

Jagau

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Chris posted this 1 weeks ago

Hey Jagau,

It is, my friend, AR on the original Circuit, gave me the circuit, I made a few small changed, but it is the best I have ever seen when it comes to Isolation and Speed and Bandwidth.

Some of my earlier Circuits had some small mistakes / Imperfections, but this last version is by far the best I have built!

I have already started a new version, it has a few improvements, Double sided on some High Current Traces, shorter Traces where possible, moved the Decoupling caps closer to the IC's, better size, a little smaller, and little better cutout, around the outside:

 

I really enjoy prototyping stuff like this, not sure if much more improvements can be made here on in.

   Chris

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Jagau posted this 1 weeks ago

Hey Chris

Sounds interesting but just out of curiosity is it the same initial circuit component to the one I made?

Jagau

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Chris posted this 1 weeks ago

Hey Jagau,

Yes same basic circuit.

   Chris

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cd_sharp posted this 6 days ago

Hey, Chris

I was unable to find 16pF caps in stores or my parts storage for C3 on the schematic. I found instead 8.2pF caps.

Do you think it's a problem if I use 2 x 8.2pF in parallel? I'll get 16.4pF.

Thanks

 

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Chris posted this 6 days ago

Hey CD,

You will be fine to use something close.

C3 16pf is a Filter Cap, to try to filter out anything that is not desirable. At least this is my understanding. Jagau can likely explain better the use here for this cap.

The value is not all that important, just use something that is close.

I cant wait to see all your builds!

   Chris

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